The S/S24 season of Copenhagen Fashion Week kicked off with this year’s Woolmark Karl Lagerfeld Prize for Innovation winner A. Roege Hove. Set in the gardens of the Designmuseum Danmark, the collection was inspired by the “allure of summer” – but hopefully a very Danish summer, as the skies opened up just as the show kicked off.
Despite the rain, Roege Hove’s collection so neatly showed how she continues to push knitwear to elegant, technical extremes . The show opened with a delicate sheer top within which 200 silver Georg Jensen beads were trapped – a soft launch of the designer’s upcoming collaboration with the iconic Danish design house. Later in the collection, the designer introduced Circulose, a material made from 100% textile waste, padding it into “clouds” within a top, skirt, and dress.
Community is, in many ways, the fabric of the brand’s enduring success: the show was opened by Hadid sister Alana, followed down the 200m-long sea-sprayed catwalk by a crew of both the designer’s friends and professional models. The show also introduced a new collaboration, to be released in November, with family-owned Italian heritage brand Oscalito – again, the Saks Potts family grows.
The collection’s standouts were looks in oceanic blues and soft silvers, brought together by the designers’ unrivalled knack for mixing and matching garments to create unusual, yet striking, silhouettes.
Set to a soundtrack of “flute trills and birdsong with cloud rap and ethereal, new-age trance”, the collection, which featured the duo’s signature prismatic knits in wrapped folkish silhouettes alongside new airbrushed and laser-etched denim, established a spirited mythos for a future generation.