South Korea's southeastern city of Busan is a lively modern metropolis, home to the country's largest port. This once rough-and-tumble maritime hub has developed into a bustling centre for commerce, culture and technology — pockets of the old port town, however, remain thriving neighbourhoods where the past rubs shoulders with the bright, shiny and new.
Gwangalli is also known for the lively road of restaurants, pubs and cafes lining its beach road, known as the Gwangalli Beach strip. These options range from chic cafes to old-school basement karaoke rooms and include, a popular spot for visitors looking for cold drinks and live music overlooking the famous bridge. After dark, the restaurants’ neon signs cast colourful reflections on the dark surface of the sea. “I was born and raised in Busan”, says HQ Bar co-owner Jee Kim.
At dusk, Gwangalli is home to a number of hip nightlife establishments which have sprung up in the neighbourhood’s backstreets, including Bar DiLan, which stocks a superb wine selection. However, the beach still manages to maintain its old-school feel. “It’s very boisterous and unpretentious”, Jee says, “it’s a mixture of new high-rises and back-alley restaurants right in front of the sea”.