aficionado, you’ve no doubt seen the buzzword “biomimetic” on many beauty products lately—but what exactly does this term mean? “‘Biomimetics’ refers to the products and techniques that reproduce the body’s natural functions,” explains Dr. Renée A. Beach, dermatologist and founder of DermAtelier on Avenue Road in Toronto.
Hyaluronic acid, which is present in hair, skin and nails, is a great example, as skincare science has been able to harness synthetic and marine ingredients that replicate the naturally occurring acid’s biological characteristics. “With these kinds of products, the concentration of the biomimetic ingredients is equal to that of our body’s own proteins and acids,” says Beach.
But biomimicry is nothing new to the cosmetics industry, which has been exploring this area for a long time. Back in the 1980s, Lancôme’s Niosome line and Dior’s Capture line were already embracing the technology. “These brands were the first to bring liposomes—in creams manufactured using the skin’s own structure to boost compatibility—to market,” says Ripoll.
Since then, biomimicry has found its way into all kinds of marketing campaigns, which is a genius strategy, says Ripoll, given the innovation’s big benefits. “For scientists, copying nature guarantees a certain success rate since higher efficacy goes hand in hand with compounds that mimic a biological process rather than some randomly selected chemicals,” he explains. “For manufacturers, it’s a narrative that’s natural to promote.
For Katia Ravard, head of biomimicry at Pierre Fabre Group, the field of biomimetic cosmetics is just getting started. “Pretty much every area—actives, ingredients, textures, the science itself and industrial processes, to name a few—is ripe for innovation,” she says. The next step? More expertise, research and knowledge sharing between professionals from the various fields studying biomimicry and applying those learnings to beauty.
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