The Internet has little to offer regarding kai fan. A dish once popular among hardworking locals in the 1960s, where rice comes ladled with soothing chicken broth and garnished with humble toppings, the hawker grub has since disappeared from the dining tables of Singapore.Chef Damian D'Silva's latest and possibly most ambitious venture, Rempapa, preserves the forgotten recipe.
The recipes that have been handed down for generations remain unchanged. Although the sauces are still handmade, the ingredients used and contemporary presentation mark a new chapter in local heritage cuisine. This task of recreating the childhood dishes he grew up eating comes naturally to the 65-year-old. Many young cooks who have not grown up with these generational dishes do not have the chance to learn a trade in heritage cuisine; courses specialising in it are unheard of, and recipes are closely guarded and difficult to find. Western cuisine is often considered the faster route to success.
The job is as challenging as it is rewarding. "I am part of the next generation. If we don't learn to cook heritage cuisine, then who will?" Chuah discovered that even the type of yam or keladi used to make the fudgy squares of talam keladi matters. The unusual, layered treat features gula Melaka-tinged custard sitting atop naturally sweetened mashed yam cake. While she is still learning, she hopes at some point to be able to share the recipes for these different kuehs with others. "By doing so, these heritage flavours will not be lost.